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				“Mayan Treasure” Yucatan Retreat On Turquoise Waters Coastal Outdoors By Phil H. Shook Anchored like a schooner 12 miles off Mexico's Mayan coast, Cozumel offers the Yucatan's patented turquoise waters and white sand beaches but with the laid-back lifestyle of a remote tropical island. Along this 28-mile long by 11-mile long island are some of the most exciting snorkeling and diving, explosive flats fishing and blue water angling that the Caribbean has to offer. Cozumel was a popular diving destination long before the first luxury high-rise cast a shadow over a Cancun beach and is best known for Chakanaab National Park and Palancar reef. Located 44 miles south of Cancun, Cozumel is served by its own international airport which is only a few minutes by taxi from beachside and downtown hotels. Restaurants, souvenir stores and dive shops are located in San Miguel, Cozumel's only town. Avenida Rafael Melgar, San Miguel's main thoroughfare, runs along the western shore of the island. Most downtown destinations are within easy walking distance but getting around from the outlying hotels to beaches and parks will require a taxi or rental car. The Museo de la Isla de Cozumel on Avenida Melgar provides an insightful look at the human and natural history of the island with displays of present day plant and animal life as well as an explanation of Cozumel's coral formations. Along Avenida Rafael Melgar near the town plaza, numerous shops sell the island's famous black coral jewelry with its natural gold-colored streaks. After sundown a number of American style theme restaurants and outdoor cafes provide tropical drinks and a mix of low-key entertainment from rock and roll to Reggae. Beach lovers and snorkelers should arrive early in the morning to avoid the crowds and enjoy the lagoon and gardens of Chakanaab National Park in their most pristine settings.. More than 800 species of tropical plants are on view on the paths around the lagoon and sunbathing and snorkeling are allowed nearby at the nearby ocean beach. There is a fee for admission to the park where there are bathrooms, lockers, restaurants, snack bars and snorkeling equipment rentals. One of the most famous scuba diving destinations in the Caribbean, Cozumel has dive shops on almost every corner offering a number of reef trips including a visit to the famous Palancar, a undersea mansion with caves for rooms and chandeliers of coral. Other popular diving adventures include trips to San Francisco Reef, the Santa Rosa Wall and Yucab Reef. Hotels and dive shops also offer snorkeling and diving trips to explore the clear spring waters of underground sinkholes, or cenotes. Popular beaches include Playa San Francisco and Playa Palancar, located to the south of Chankanaab National Park. On the east side of the island is Playa Bonita Beach Club which offers wind surfing equipment and a restaurant. At night anglers will be intrigued by the sight of three-foot-long barracuda stalking baitfish drawn to the lights beneath the oceanside restaurants. On one visit, I was instructed by a headwaiter to move along because the slashing strikes I was getting on a topwater plug were distracting the diners. But there is more than enough water for anglers to explore on a visit to Cozumel. Flyfishers and light tackle anglers can stalk bonefish, tarpon and permit as well as jacks, barracuda, and mangrove snapper along the shorelines and lagoons located on the north end of the island. Montecristo, Paso Balem and Rio de la Plata lagoons offer sightcasting opportunities for bonefish, baby tarpon and snook. Day charters with experienced flats guides are available in the $275 to $350 price range. Cozumel also offers world class bluewater fishing only minutes from its docks where water depths drop off from 70 feet to 1000 feet, offering opportunities to raise sailfish, blue marlin, white marlin, blackfin tuna, dorado and bonito in a day on the water. Offshore charter rates range from $350 to $650 depending on the size of the boat and the number of anglers. Skilled Cozumel captains and crews will tease sailfish and dorado in range for the flyfisher and light tackle angler. For information on fishing packages, contact Nacho Euan of Albatros Charters at 52 (987) 872 6022 or visit the website at www.flyfishingmexico.org. Among many restaurants serving fresh local seafood is the popular and upscale Pepe's Grill on Avenida Melgar overlooking the town harbor. It also offers steaks, ribs and chicken along with an array of flaming desserts. The more moderately priced Guido's, another favorite with locals and tourists, offers seafood specialties and pizza cooked over a wood oven. There are a variety of luxury hotels and beachside villas in all price ranges to choose from. The Playa Azul Golf and Beach Hotel, located five minutes from the airport, has 50 rooms and provides a beach and access to a Jack Nicklaus designed golf course as part of its package. For information, contact the hotel at 52 (987) 872 0199 or visit the website at www.playa-azul.com. The Hotel El Cozumeleno Beach Resort offers an all-inclusive package and 250 rooms. The spacious rooms at this popular hotel all have balconies with an ocean view. For information, phone 800/437-3923 or visit the website at www.elcozumeleno.com. September 2003