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				“Zihuatanejo's Sparkling Bay” A Quiet Charm Reminiscent Of Hemingway's Cuba Coastal Outdoors By Phil H. Shook Open-air restaurants, sheltered beaches, and shops with Taxco silver and Oaxacan rugs are among the many special pleasures of Zihuatanejo. But at this old-fashioned fishing port on Mexico's west coast, the sparkling bay is what leaves the most enduring impression. Bargain-priced hotels, restaurants and explosive nearshore and bluewater fishing add to the attraction of this seacoast town between Manzanillo and Acapulco. And while Mexico's mega seaside resorts draw the partying crowds, Zihuatanejo continues to thrive with a quiet charm reminiscent of Hemingway's Cuba. Old men still gather along Paseo del Pescador to play cards and visit in restaurants and plazas that come with a full view of the fishing fleet. There are a variety of good restaurants, shops for tourists and a few late-night clubs, but the town bustles mainly with its own blue-collar vitality. It's a pleasant contrast to the heavy dose of American-style amenities and manicured tropical sprawl at the nearby resort hotels in Ixtapa-a beach vacation complex along the lines of Cancun created by the Mexican government. The two communities - only 6 miles apart - are totally different in personality and style, but they share equally in the beauty of the Pacific. While Zihuatanejo has grown since it was discovered by tourists in the 1960s, it's still easy to get around the town. The heart of the city's shopping is centered around 10 square blocks, and most of the attractions are within easy walking distance of seaside hotels and bungalows. Among the interesting shops is Los Almedros, which offers ceramics from Oaxaca. An ample selection of Taxco silver, pins and jewelry can be found at several shops, including Plata de Taxco, Alberto's, El Jumil and La Perla. There also are shops offering unique items ranging from large Pacific shells to live size wooden sculptures of women. Fresh fruits, vegetables, seafood, medicinal herbs and a colorful selection of handicrafts can be found at Zihuatanejo's Central Market, three blocks east of the center of town on Calle Benito Juarez. In Zihuatanejo, beach lovers can travel by taxi or take a boat from the municipal dock to visit several scenic playas nestled below palm-covered cliff faces. About a $2 taxi ride from downtown delivers tourists to Playa la Ropa on the east side of the bay, a favorite gathering place at sunset. South of La Ropa Beach, sheltered by a coral reef, is Playa las Gatas. Popular with snorkelers, Las Gatas is a 10-minute trip by motor launch from downtown. A variety of bay-and beach-side hotel, bungalow and condos is available in Zihuatanejo. The city is known for having some of the best budget accommodations on the Pacific; clean double rooms can be found at downtown hotels such as Casa Aurora, Casa Bravo and Hotel Imelda. For those inclined more toward luxury, lush landscaping and spectacular views of the bay - and willing to pay for it - the Villa del Sol overlooks Playa la Ropa, and the 22-room Puerto Mio is a gracious hacienda-style hotel in a tropical garden setting. Each provides spectacular bay vistas. La Sirena Gorda (the fat mermaid) on Paseo del Pescador offers breakfast, lunch and dinner at reasonable prices. Daily luncheon specials include blackened red snapper and seafood tacos. La Perla Restaurant, with cloth-covered tables under a breezy palapa at La Ropa Beach, and Mariscos Zihua in downtown Zihuatanejo offer fresh seafood and Mexican specialties at moderate prices. One of La Perla's memorable entrees is fresh fish wrapped in foil with tomatoes, onions and cheese.. Few destinations offer the variety of bluewater-fishing opportunities or a bigger bargain for the angling dollar. Extended periods of stable weather, light winds and the gentle, long Pacific swell make Zihuatanejo's waters ideal for the offshore angler. All of the boats in the Ixtapa Sportfishing Charters fleet come with a captain and mate, and most speak some English. They all carry modern offshore equipment including Penn International, Shimano and Mitchell tackle. Species taken in these waters vary from roosterfish, snapper, grouper, and jackfish along the shorelines and nearshore rock formations to dorado, marlin, sailfish and tuna a little farther out. At Zihuatanejo, the day charter fee means a full day of fishing because the bluewater action starts so close to the dock. Free-jumping sailfish and schooling black skipjack tuna frequently are spotted at the mouth of the harbor. After a session on that day's action packed sailfish and marlin grounds, usually no farther than 15 to 20 miles offshore, anglers can move back to fish the rocky shorelines of the caves and crevices of Morros de Potosi. Decorated with the droppings of its resident booby colony, the white rocks can be seen for miles. A short taxi ride to Ixtapa offers several lively nightclubs and lavish buffet dinners under the palms at the resort hotels lining the captivating Playa Palmar. For dancing or listening to salsa and other tropical music, try Carlos 'N Charlie's or the Sanca Bar in the Sheraton Hotel. Among the day trips offered through local hotels is a tour through the countryside to the small town of Coacoyul that includes a visit to the tile factory and fruit plantation. Travelers can also visit the Playa Quieta wildlife preserve and take the 5-minute boat ride to Ixtapa Island. On the island are two beaches, open-air restaurants and excellent snorkeling around coral reefs. December 2003