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“Destin's Sands”

Jade-Colored Water And Sugary White Beaches

Coastal Outdoors
By Phil H. Shook

The jade colored water and light sand beaches off the Gulf shores of Destin and Fort Walton Beach have always left an indelible impression on visitors to these onetime sleepy fishing villages on the Florida Panhandle.

In recent years several devastating hurricanes have been countered by feverish building with a resulting bloom in shopping malls, upscale boutiques, and highrise condominiums. Today, while the trip to the local bait shop is a little more challenging in summer season traffic, the captivating seascapes continue to stir the soul.

A scenic pass connects the Gulf to Okaloosa Sound and miles of accessible beachfront to the south. To the north are the rich backcountry shorelines of Choctawhatchee Bay. Amidst this marine tranquility and wildness alligators glide undisturbed in ponds on the sprawling manicured grounds of resort hotels. Here, visitors are entertained in the evening by the comical antics of raccoon families.

Each spring cobia (ling) make their migratory return to the area's nearshore waters followed closely by anglers from all over the country. Slowly cruising along the surfline, anglers have the opportunity to sightcast to these solidly built game fish with live bait, plugs and flies. Greg Miheve, a longtime resident of Fort Walton and one of the most skilled commercial flytyers in the country, turns out dozens of his chartreuse and orange pulsar fly patterns just for the occasion.

For another unique adventure, anglers can book a night of light tackle or fly fishing under the lights around the docks on Choctawatchee Bay. Capt. Paul Darby at nearby Shalimar (850-651-2991) guides these night stalking trips for spotted seatrout and redfish and will even provide some of his proven fly patterns like his deadly Tan Hopper.

Yacht sportfishers line the Destin docks offering nearshore charters for king mackerel, little tunny, schoolie dorado and cobia or bottom fishing for amberjack, black grouper and scamp. The prime inshore and nearshore fishing season begins in March and runs through Novermber. On bluewater trips to the 50 fathom curve about 27 miles southwest of Destin, anglers hunt blue marlin white marlin, sailfish and wahoo during the prime August through October season.

Those free of the angling addiction can enjoy on-the-water sightseeing in style aboard the sailing vessel Nathaniel Bowditch. Dolphin watching is excellent and coolers with wine, cheese and other civilized refreshments are welcomed (850-837-2793). Gulfarium on the Miracle Strip Parkway in Fort Walton Beach (800-244-5169) showcases well trained , punctual, working-class dolphins to delight kids of all ages. At the Museum of the Sea and Indian on the Beach Highway (Old Route 98) in Destin there are native American artifacts on display including the dugout canoe used by the great Seminole chief Oscelola.

There is a variety of lodging in all price ranges available in Destin/Fort Walton Beach from venerable resorts with sculptured grounds like Sandestin (904-267-8000) and Seascape (904-837-9181) to seaside cottages and high rise condominiums. An added treat for visiting anglers are the freshwater ponds on the golf courses. Fish early and late to avoid flying golf balls and don't forget the non-resident fishing license.

Area restaurants compete with each other to provide the freshest and most creatively prepared seafood often delivered from the Gulf right to their docks. Start by sampling the many open air deck restaurants at the Destin Docks including the Lucky Snapper at the Harborwalk Marina (654-0900).

One of my favorite restaurants is Charles Morgan's Harbor docks on Highway 98 in Destin (850-837-2506). Along with artfully prepared fresh seafood, it offers innovative side dishes such as ginger rice and chili dipping sauces as well as a sushi bar. An extra treat at the Harbor Docks is the evocative collection of landscapes by noted artist, author and angler Russell Chatham.

Fudpucker's on Okaloosa Island (850-243-3833), a favorite of locals since the early 1980s, offers a full menu of seafood entrees, burgers and salads. The Back Proch on Old Highway East in Destin (850-837-3771) near Seascape Resort can easily become a habit, offering breakfast, lunch, and dinner in a rustic, laid back setting right on the beach.

Side trips to nearby Grayton Beach and Seaside offer old, new and recreated vistas of a magical coast where the light sand beaches and turquoise waters will forever impart a gravitational pull on the visitor.

March 2003